Guides
How induction cooking actually works
Induction heats the pan, not the hob. A plain explanation of the magnetic field, why cookware has to be magnetic, and what that changes in a kitchen.
An induction hob does not get hot and then pass its heat to the pan. It makes the pan itself the heating element. That single difference explains almost everything people notice about induction cooking: the speed, the cool surface around the pan, the fussiness about cookware, and the faint noise some pans make.
What to take away
- A coil under the glass creates a changing magnetic field.
- That field induces currents in a magnetic pan, and the pan heats itself.
- Cookware must be magnetic, which is testable with a fridge magnet.
- The glass gets warm from the pan, not from the element.
What is happening under the glass
Under each cooking zone sits a coil of wire carrying alternating current. Alternating current produces a changing magnetic field, and a changing magnetic field passing through a conductor induces currents in it. The EIA primer on the science of electricity covers that relationship between electricity and magnetism, which is the same physics used in generators and transformers, applied here at the scale of a saucepan.
Put a magnetic pan on the zone and the induced currents circulate inside the base of the pan. The pan's own resistance turns those currents into heat. The energy has moved from the wall to the coil to the field to the pan, changing form at each step but not disappearing; the EIA explainer on forms of energy sets out that framework in plain terms.
Why the cookware matters so much
Only ferromagnetic materials respond usefully. Cast iron and most stainless steel work. Aluminum, copper and glass do not, unless the manufacturer has bonded a magnetic layer into the base.
The test takes five seconds: hold a fridge magnet against the bottom of the pan. If it grips firmly, the pan will work. If it slides off or clings weakly, it will not, or will perform poorly.
Base flatness and diameter matter too, because coupling depends on contact area over the coil. A warped pan or one much smaller than the zone will heat unevenly and may not be detected at all.
What changes in the kitchen
| Difference | Practical consequence |
|---|---|
| Heat is made in the pan | Surface stays cooler; spills do not bake on as readily |
| Very fast response | Power changes take effect almost immediately |
| Pan detection | Lift the pan and the zone stops |
| No open flame | Nothing to blow out, and no combustion in the kitchen |
| Magnetic requirement | Some existing cookware will not work |
The noise question comes up often. Some pans hum or buzz, particularly multi-layer bases at high power, because the layers respond slightly differently to the field. It is a property of the pan more than of the hob.
Where it fits in a house
An induction range is an electrical appliance with a real load behind it. A full-size range generally needs a dedicated 240-volt circuit installed to the appliance's own instructions, and running that circuit is licensed electrical work. Whether a permit is required is set by your building department, so ask them rather than assuming. Portable single-zone units run on an ordinary outlet and are a genuine way to try the technology first.
If you are weighing this against other upgrades, our list of thirteen upgrade types puts it in order of commitment, and the electrification starting guide covers the panel capacity question that decides whether a full range is straightforward.
Common questions
Will my existing pans work? Test each one with a fridge magnet. Cast iron and most stainless steel work; aluminum and copper generally do not.
Is induction the same as a smooth electric hob? No. A radiant smooth hob heats an element under the glass. Induction heats the pan directly and leaves the glass comparatively cool.
Does the glass still get hot? It warms from contact with the hot pan, so treat it as hot after cooking. It simply is not the source of the heat.
Can I use a portable unit to try it? Yes, and it is the cheapest realistic test. It tells you about the cooking, not about the oven or the installation.
In this guide
- Reading induction hob and range specificationsWhich induction specifications matter: zone diameters, bridging, boost sharing, minimum pan size and total appliance load, and which marketing numbers do not.
- Fitting an induction range: what the job involvesFrom gas cap-off to circuit run to cabinet clearance, the sequence and trades involved in replacing a gas or electric cooker with induction.
